The Soviet past collides with the capitalist present everywhere in Russia, but nowhere is this contrast more visible than in Moscow, the vibrant heart of the country. Vladimir Ilich Lenin’s Mausoleum remains intact, as do many dreary five-story apartment buildings from the era of Nikita Khrushchev’s rule, which lasted from the mid-1950s to the mid-1960s. But glitzy automobiles and Western-style supermarkets, casinos, and nightclubs are equally visible. Many Orthodox churches, as well as some synagogues and mosques, have been restored, while Moscow’s best theaters have reclaimed leadership in the dramatic arts, and traditional markets have been revived and expanded.