The Parallel Lives of Two Countries

Although it's hard to not keep craning your head to take in the spectacle of the Acropolis at the center of town (especially when it's lit up at night), there's more to Athens than its dense concentration of ancient ruins. Athens is a center for contemporary art, with modern galleries sitting beside museums stuffed with art dating back millennia. This combination of the old and new is especially clear at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a spectacular open-air theater that has hosted concerts and plays for nearly 2,000 years. The city's culture is also reflected in its diverse food and drink, which combines traditional Greek favorites with influences from across the Mediterranean, and the world, as fitting Athens' deep history as a humming harbor hub. While Athens' variety is enough to keep you busy, from the hidden back alleys of the center, to the city's showy coast, the city works well as a base for day trips, whether down the coast, or to the Peloponnese. Head to oracular Delphi, or hunt for where Lord Byron's carved his name into the monumental Temple of Poseidon at the tip of Cape Sounion.

Small but charming, Ioannina's history is closely linked to Ali Pasha, the ruthless and divisive provincial leader who made Ioannina into a center of Greek culture in the late 18th century, at great cost. Ioannina's castle, a lakeside Byzantine fortress with earlier elements, was made into a palace by Ali Pasha, with generous green spaces and historical monuments, mosques, and museums covering the town's cosmopolitan past. Ioannina's modern museums cover topics from its Christian, Islamic, and Jewish past, to Byzantine history and art, and the town's famed silversmiths. Lake Pamvotis is home to tiny Ioannina Island, which somehow manages to fit seven monasteries, forming Greece's third largest monastic community. Here, you'll also find the Museum of Ali Pasha, in the monastery where he was assassinated at the end of a failed rebellion against the Ottoman Empire.

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city, offers urban sophistication and cultural diversity. With its ancient roots, Thessaloniki, also known as Saloniki and Salonica, offers a delightful amalgam of historical, culinary, and cultural activities. Due to its prime location, this city has had many rulers, from the Venetians to the Saracens to the Ottomans. For centuries, Thessaloniki was Byzantium's second largest and wealthiest city, after Constantinople, and it even served as a "co-capital" at times. Thessaloniki was a haven for Sephardic Jews fleeing Spanish persecution, a group that for a time formed most of the city's population, and which is still visible in the city's diverse architecture, music, and cuisine. While compact in size, Thessaloniki is home to 15 UNESCO-listed monuments. The expansive harbor is its heart and soul, offering magnificent views of Thermaikos Bay. This urban waterfront is the center of many of Thessaloniki’s happenings, as well as the location of its iconic landmarks, such as the White Tower and the Monument of Alexander the Great. Its former warehouses now house the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Thessaloniki Museum of Photography, and the Thessaloniki Cinema Museum.

Istanbul is a sprawling city of 15+ million people that contains two continents and a wealth of history. From the Byzantines to the Ottoman Empire to the modern Turkish Republic, Istanbul has seen the churn of history throughout the centuries, and the remains of all these eras live alongside the ever-changing face of contemporary Turkey. The Hagia Sophia, formerly a Byzantine church, an Ottoman mosque, and a Republic-era museum, before reverting recently to a mosque, is Istanbul’s most significant site, located in the heart of Sultanahmet. The hip districts of Beyoglu, Besiktas, and Kadikoy overflow with restaurants and cafes, and the central boulevard Istiklal Caddesi serves as the main artery for shopping, food, and nightlife in this buzzing city.

With a name drawn from the region’s ancient Christian history, Cappadocia combines stunning natural landscapes with a complex and still-visible history. Cave churches throughout the region boast still-colorful frescos and a shady respite from the Cappadocia sunshine. In Kaymakli and Derinkuyu, underground cities twist and turn in a knot of hidden hallways, preserved throughout hundreds of years. Above ground, the volcanic landscape seems to change every few miles, curling into stunning new rock formations and undulating hillsides around every turn. This is a perfect place to be in nature, with the quiet sounds of birdsong and wind filling the big open sky.